| This section is designed to give you a more in-depth introduction to the
Nikon LS-2000 Film Scanner. In the quick tour you learned how to scan a
slide using established settings. In this section, you will get a more
detailed look at how to adjust settings yourself, and how to scan negative film
as well as slides. It is assumed that you have used the scanner and are
familiar with how to start it from Adobe Photoshop. If not, go back and
take the Quick Tour. |
1.
In PhotoShop, use the File:Import:Select Twain32 Menu to select the
Nikon LS-2000, then use the File:Import:Twain_32 Menu
to start the Nikon Scan Module. |
2. Verify that you are scanning positives and are
in the RGB color space. Important - Under NO circumstances
should you adjust any settings under the pref
button! |
3. Begin
setting the adjustments under the tabs by clicking on the top tab to
open it. |
 |
| 4. Looking at the contents of the top tab (above, right),
note that the tab is divided into two areas. Leave the top part
alone. It shows that the input is to be the whole slide, which is
about 3.66 cm (36.6mm) by 2.44 cm (24.4 mm) - the size of a 35 mm frame. |
| 5. You may want to adjust the output. In
general, it is better to scan a larger image than you need and either
crop it or reduce it in Photoshop, but larger images take longer to
scan.
To scan for the web or on-screen use:
Be sure that the measurement unit is pixels, and use the size of the
computer screen as a reference. Most screens are set at a
resolution of about 1,000 wide by 800 pixels high. Note the blue locking
symbol which means that changing one dimension will automatically change
the other.
 | For a scenic picture where you want to capture most of the slide,
use a width setting of about 800 to start with. |
 | For a medium-sized organism in the picture that you want to
emphasize, perhaps by cropping, use a width setting of about 1,000. |
 | For tiny objects in the picture that you want to bring out, set
the width over 1,200 - and be ready for a grainy picture. |
 | Set the resolution to 72 pixels/inch. |
To scan for printed output:
Be sure that the measurement unit is in inches or centimeters.
 | Click on the arrow to the right of the long bar at the bottom (it
says "custom" in the image above). Select the
printer you plan to use; the program will set the resolution.
If the printer is not listed, select custom and manually set the
resolution to 300. |
 | Adjust the width to the size of the final image you want to print. |
Be sure that the measurement unit is pixels, and use the size of the
computer screen as a reference. Most screens are set at a
resolution of about 1,000 wide by 800 pixels high. Note the blue locking
symbol which means that changing one dimension will automatically change
the other.
|
| 6. Now, click on the second tab from the top. This tab
allows you to customize the response of the scanner to overall
brightness as well as the brightness of each individual color. In
general, you SHOULD NOT MODIFY these settings; if you must, be sure to
RESET them before closing the program. You might want to click
reset yourself to be sure that anyone else's settings do not affect your
scans. |
 |
| 7. Click on the third tab from the top. This tab allows you to
modify the brightness and color balance of the scan. Again, you
should not modify these settings; be sure they are all set to the
middle. |
 |
| 8. On the bottom tab, you might actually get to make some
changes! Clicking on the top horizontal bar (where it says CleanImage in
the image to the right) brings up an array of choices, most of which
aren't pictured here. They are:
|
 |
- CleanImage - This is the feature that the Nikon is famous
for. Special software analyzes the data and can actually tell
what information comes from the film and what comes from dust,
boogers, scratches and fingerprints. When turned on, it
eliminates all the artifacts. It is like magic, but it does
increase the time required to make a scan. Leave it on in the
normal mode. The sharpen mode does a preliminary sharpen, but
it is better to have the sharpening under your control in PhotoShop.
- Manual Focus Adjustment - Normally the Nikon will autofocus (one
of the reasons you shouldn't mess with the preferences); this allows
you to focus manually. Disregard.
- Analog Gain - This adjusts the gain (brightness) BEFORE the
digital information is obtained. Disregard.
- Multiple Sample Scanning - this repeats the scanning passes to
icrease the final quality of the image. On some images, it
just might be worth it, but it greatly increases the time required
to make a scan. It is a waste of time for images to be viewed
on the computer screen.
- Scanner Extras - A paltry sampling of extras it is. You can
experiment with interpolation algorithms, but it's best to leave
this setting as it is. The other choice, Negative Prescan
Mode, might be worth a shot if your negatives are not scanning
well. There is one alternative Negative Prescan Mode you can
choose from. If you make any changes here, remember to reset
them when you are finished.
- Pixel Data Size: Two choices here, 8 or 12. 8 gives adequate
quality, 12 might be better. I have not tested the effect of
this choice, but a setting of 12 will increase the file size.
|
| 7. Begin scanning slides. Scan up to 10 at a
time (but remember if the computer hangs up before you save files, you
will lose the unsaved files). You cannot edit or save a scanned
image until you close the Nikon Scan 2.1 window and return to PhotoShop. |
In general, scanning negatives is only slightly more complicated than
scanning slides. Still, you should be familiar with scanning slides before
attempting to scan negatives. This section assumes that you are using the
SA-20 strip film adapter and a strip of negatives. To scan a single
negative you either need to mount it in a slide mount (and use the slide
adapter) or use the Nikon Strip Film Holder and the Slide Adapter - see
Dr. McShaffrey for instructions.
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